We have two guests, women, Shiela and Patricia from D.C. for five days. They are not new to St John but new to staying here. They have been off each day on day trips. Zoe and I joined them on a birding expedition that the National Park offers on Friday mornings at Francis Bay. I have never been bird watching before and it was terrific. Afterwards, Zoe and I had breakfast in Coral Bay at Sylvia's Clean Plates. This is the second time I have had breakfast there and both times had coconut pancakes, very delicious. We are in the midst of a coconut binge here at Viers, thanks to Zoe. She collected a bunch and Jamie helped her crack them and Zoe spent most of the day getting the coconut meat out, grinding it up in the cuisinart and then squeezing it through a cloth. We all tried that.. it was like milking a coconut! This resulted in lots of juice that Zoe let sit for about two days so that it would separate. The goal was coconut oil and it actually ended up more like a suave. Zoe conditioned her hair with it and I am going to try it. Susan made coconut macaroons which were outstanding. We all munched on coconut meat just raw which this also is very good… kind of nutty tasting.
Bill and Susan departed today. They were to stay at Viers a month but due to a health issue, Bill needed to go home sooner. I drove them in to Cruz Bay to catch the ferry for STT this morning and it was not the way they wanted to end their trip. However, as Jamie said, “this is not the place to be sick”.
We have nine guests in camp from University of Virgin Islands. We had to prepare their cabins and this was the first time I have done that task i.e. for a group. Now I can add “chambermaid” to my job functions at Viers!
We also have two new volunteers as of last Wednesday, Zack and Kelly who were volunteering at Concordia for two weeks. Jamie picked them up hitchhiking and arrangements were made for them to come here when they left there. They are field biologists and have worked in the National Park at the Outer Banks during summers. They are in their twenties. They have been given the task of rescreening and repainting the screen frames in the dining hall and they are doing a great job. We welcomed them with a group dinner on Wednesday night that Jamie and Zoe prepared. It was heavily vegetarian and incredibly good. Jamie did supply a bottle of wine to go with it that was also incredibly good… of him. Zack and Kelly also brought Damian, who was just spending one night. He is the son of the National Park Director for the Virgin Islands and has grown up living in National Parks all over the country… How cool is that? We had a wonderful dinner together and I rallied for it because I had just returned froma three day excursion and getting back that last day is always exhausting.
My outing was to Tortola, a British Virgin Island. Sunday night I went into Cruz Bay and stayed overnight at the St John Inn. I needed to be in Cruz Bay to get a 6:30 am ferry to STT and then an 8:30 ferry to Tortola BVI. I was determined to use the passport that I “expedited” before I left at least once while I was here.
The St John Inn ( http://www.stjohninn.com/) was fine for my purposes. It is very close to the ferry dock and so very convenient and no hills to climb. They only had a suite available and I was wondering what exactly made it a suite but the answer was that it was two rooms, though small. It was very clean and well decorated. My “suite” was right off the office and when I tried to leave the room the door got stuck because the veneer was coming off it. The manager and I spend a bit of time screwing it back together to insure that I could get out of the room! Just another “typical you never know quite what to expect and go with the flow” moment that are so frequent in the islands. No need to fuss about things because it really gets no results.
I showered and went to dinner downtown at the Limetree Inn (http://limeinn.com/) which is one of my favorite restaurants… though others are gaining on it. I watched some TV! As usual there was nothing that interesting to watch. I got to bed early because I had an early and long day ahead of me.
I was so concerned about the alarm not going off that I got very little sleep and finally got up at 5am. About 5:30 I opened my door to the office where a young girl sat at the desk (the night manager) who was more than a little surprised to see me up so early. I explained that I was catching a ferry and she thought I was way too early, which I was. It was still pitch dark outside. So I went back in my room and watched TV for a bit and left the Inn at about 6. I got a cup of coffee at JJ’s and then boarded the ferry. It was actually a neat experience as the sun started to come up and to watch St John recede as we headed toward Red Hook. I left the ferry and the Safari bus was at the stop. The Safari bus is better than the Vtran. They cost a buck and run all over STT. I jumped on and we were headed toward Charlotte Amalie for the Tortola “fast ferry”. I arrived at the second ferry and the desk was not yet open and when I looked at the clock it was 6:55! I still cannot figure out how I got from one place to another in less than a half hour. This seems impossible to me but as I reviewed it in my mind I concluded that is what happened. If you were trying to do this; I don’t think you could pull it off. The thought actually crossed my mind that I had been in a fatal accident on the ferry and I was walking around as a ghost as I am sure you have seen in a number of movies.
Now I had an hour and a half to wait. I walked back a few blocks trying to find something open to have a little breakfast and found a latte place… a latte and bagel… excellent.
I boarded the fast ferry finally and was on my way to the British Virgin Islands… Road Town… Tortola that took about ninety minutes.
It was an enjoyable ride. I arrived and walked around Road Town… found a great shop called The Gallery (http://www.thegallerybvi.com/)%20and promised them if I won the lottery… I would be back. The shop had things from many local artists and they were all so beautiful. I also spend at least a half hour in the Sunny Caribee spice shope ... You will not find a better selection! (http://www.sunnycaribbee.com/ )I had lunch at Pusser”s Outpost (http://www.pussers.com/t-road-town-pub.aspx) and bought some gifts that, of course, included the famous Pusser’s Rum and so did lunch. I had grog , “the real thing”. Here is the recipe: (http://www.pussers.com/t-grog-recipe.aspx) After paying a $5.oo custom’s tax (so many fees…so little time) I boarded the ferry for STT at 2:30pm. I was sitting on the top deck and we had a major downpour, these happen frequently here. I was under a small roof so I stayed outside and was rewarded with a magnificent rainbow that faded into the ocean on both ends. This is the land of rainbows because of these brief heavy downpours, followed by brilliant sunshine.
Customs in STT took quite a long time. We were asked if we had food items. The people in front of my had a bag off snacks and a cooler which they went through meticulously and when I made a wisecrack about it… the customs man said he should arrest me just for making jokes! He then told me just how serious the matter was and that one ham sandwich had caused an epidemic that killed hundreds of people. Live and learn! The worst part of this was that I forgot that I had half of my lunch in a doggie bag and I had said I had no food items. I am thankful that they did not find it.. or I just may have been arrested.
I had decided before I left to stay in STT when I got back because I knew I would be weary. As I began to walk to the Galleon House (where I stayed on my first night in STT), (http://galleonhousestthomas.com/) the skies opened up again. I had a little rain jacket on but there was no escaping it. I got drenched to the bone and just gave into it. I reached the hotel and was so happy to take a hot shower and change into dry clothes. I actually did not go out but ate the contents of my doggie bag for dinner and enjoyed the view from the room, a very pretty room that had been newly decorated. The next day I met the new owners as of August who are renovating. I actually reserved the very same room for my last night in STT before I fly home. The only disadvantage to the renovation is that the price will probably go up and it has been a very reasonable and nice place to stay when you are arriving or leaving here. However, don’t go there with a lot of luggage! There are many stairs and no one to help you carry bags up! I learned this the hard way the first time I stayed there and a couple who was staying there that night also learned the hard way. I had breakfast with them the next day and found out that they live in Tortola (she was originally from Vermont) and have guest Agape Cottages (http://www.agapecottages.com/) in Cane Bay. I went online and found out the rates… and though they are reasonable and well located it seems… would be steep for me traveling alone. I did log the information for future reference as I now am in the habit of doing.
I decided not to hurry back to Viers since the Vtran never seems to come until late afternoon anyway. Instead, I decided to go visit Blackbeard’s Castle ( http://www.blackbeardscastle.com/ ) This is a restaurant and inn where Jayne and I used to stay as a treat the night before we came home from our St John vacations. I was astounded to find out that it has been purchased by a corporation, the hotel, the restaurant and several adjacent acres which have been deemed an “historic area”. As I tried to enter the courtyard I was asked to pay a fee of $14, which I declined. There were at least three tour buses loading people off and into the area. The bus loads of people created an amusement park atmosphere. I wondered if you had to pay the fee to have dinner at the restaurant or stay at the inn? I spoke with a man, who felt it his job to defend the fee by telling me about the purchase of the land etc. etc. I found it a bit sad, because it seemed more like a money making scheme than a well motivated endeavor. The only saving grace, I guess is that it looks very well maintained.
I found out that the ferry I was waiting for from Charlotte Amalie was probably not going to show and proceeded to jump a Safari to Red Hook where they run regularly on the hour. I got back into Cruz Bay and actually did not have to wait long to catch the Vtran bus. On the way back on the bus, I tried to use my flip video camera to capture the roller coaster ride complete with sound effects but I just don’t think you can capture this any other way than by actually riding it! You are just feeling lucky when you get to your destination each time you ride.
I walked from the stop back to Viers and was joined by two donkeys. Donkeys frequently walk the roads here adding to the excitement of driving. Donkey, goats and today I was three cows in the road on my trip to Cruz Bay and one was the biggest cow I have ever seen! The donkeys and I walked together and I took pictures of them and even some video. They were not bashful and walked right up to me. I imagine they were looking for food and that tourists probably train them to do so. I was not quite sure if they can get nasty but they did not. I was actual stalling to try and get a ride from a passerby but did not until I was about 300 yards from the camp entrance. Bummer… I had to do the hills and puddles.
My ride as it turns out are a couple in their 80’s who are the oldest people to have skied to the North Pole. I know this because we picked up the woman yesterday, hitchhiking. Her name is Lydia. She was walking home and was not doing well on the shaded roads with increasing traffic now that tourist season is picking up.
AND, she called today and invited us over on Tuesday to see the video of her expedition. This should be a blast… looking forward to it. AND, they are from Lyndonville, VT and she frequently comes to Hanover, NH and so I said we would have to get together in my neck of the woods sometime and I am going to make sure that happens.
I also met a shop owner in Coral Bay, who built an interesting house that is a bunch of pods. I asked her if she rented it and she said no, but did I want to housesit? I was all over it. She knows Randy Brown well (the Viers Administrator). She took my contact information and also told me she has a brother she visits occasionally in Lebanon, N.H. I had some lunch at the Shipwreck (another favorite of mine), which is adjacent to the shops and then went back and offered my house up as a place to stay if she comes to visit sometime and wants her own place. I said “I had places I could go”… I have no idea what will come of these connections made…but who knows… it is fun making them.
Please note: I am pretty aware of what information I give people and just who I choose to give what information. I even started an email account just for this trip. So, not to worry …. you do have to be careful.
Tonight Zoe and I are headed in to Cruz Bay to see a youth steel band concert and have a pre thanksgiving Caribbean dinner at the park. The tickets were $15 and it should be fun. Zoe flies home tomorrow for the real Thanksgiving.
We at Viers have planned a traditional Thanksgiving dinner for Thursday… but it is going to be different that is for sure. It will be Jamie, me, Zack, Kelly, Ranger Dave and another park ranger. I was kidding around that we could all Skype our families in…. when I really wish I could actually fly mine in!
Keeping you posted!
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